Leaving Phnom Penh, we travel into rural Cambodia to Kampot, which sits on a picturesque river. On the way, we stop at the 11th-century Phnom Chisor mountain temple, which is set on a hill with a magnificent view.
Upon arrival, we check into our centrally located hotel, our base for the next two nights, before boarding a local boat for a sunset trip on the Kampot River. The waterway runs through the town centre and can flow in both directions as it is closely connected to the sea. Stay: The Columns Hotel (or similar) (B).
Today, we venture into the countryside to discover the highlights of the Kampot province including salt fields, rice fields, fruit and pepper plantations, and the Phnom Chhnork caves. Kampot is also one of the largest producers of durian fruit; the durian, once opened, has a smell so pungent it is illegal to take it indoors in some Southeast Asian countries.
After exploring the countryside, we visit Kep ghost town. Once a popular seaside resort, Kep now houses old resort buildings marked with bullet holes from the Khmer Rouge period, a reminder of the not-so-distant past. It is regaining popularity with local tourists and you might like to join them in having lunch in the simple crab shacks that line the beach (the crab in Kampot pepper sauce is a must). Stay: The Columns Hotel (or similar) (B).
This morning, we transfer back to the mainland by speed boat (45 minutes to one hour) and drive on to Phnom Penh (approximate transfer time: five to six hours) with a stop for lunch. Phnom Penh, on the banks of the Tonle Sap and the Mekong River, is home to 2. 2m people. It's the capital city, but retains a laid-back, typically Cambodian feel where the pace is slower than one might expect. We set out on a sunset cyclo (bicycle rickshaw) lap of the town giving us a unique view of this bustling city and providing us with an easy orientation. Stopping to see street food served by the waterfront, we have the chance to try local specialities. We finish at a restaurant serving tasty Khmer cuisine. There are also many waterfront bars worth a visit; the Foreign Correspondents' Club (FCC) overlooking the Tonle Sap river is recommended. Stay: Ohana Hotel (or similar) (B).
Enjoy a full day of sightseeing in the capital, which takes in the beautiful Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, so named for the solid-silver tiles that make up the floor. Thankfully, the complex escaped the Khmer Rouge regime. Similar in style and scale to the Grand Palace in Bangkok, the Royal Palace has significantly fewer visitors and there is plenty of time to wander among the traditional buildings. There is also time today to shop at either the impressive Central Market or the sprawling Russian Market, a souvenir hunter's paradise. We visit Tuol Sleng museum or S21 (Museum of Genocide), which graphically displays the horrors of the four years when Pol Pot ordered the murder of between 2m and 3m Cambodians.
Tuol Sleng was originally a school but was used as a torture and interrogation centre between 1976 and 1979. It is a sobering and disturbing place to visit. Please be aware, the images at the museum are very graphic. We complete our day with a moving late afternoon visit to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. A football field-sized area surrounded by farmland, the Killing Fields contain mass graves for perhaps 20,000 Cambodians, many of whom were tortured before being killed. Stay: Ohana Hotel (or similar) (B).
After breakfast, we head to the town of Siem Reap with stops at the local market at Pouk. Cambodian markets tend to be fragrant affairs – on offer here is Cambodian ‘cheese'; one of the strongest smelling cheeses around, perhaps because it is made entirely of fish. The local market is nonetheless a great insight into the daily life of the Cambodian people. We also make a brief stop at the Angkor Silk Farm for an introduction into the life of a silkworm and the production process of this fine textile.
This afternoon, we walk past the Royal Gardens and along the Siem Reap River to the Old Market, helping us get our bearings in this small town. You may like to finish with a visit to the Artisans DÁngkor workshop – a not-for-profit organisation that provides vocational training for young people in traditional Cambodian arts. Stay: Angkor Holiday Hotel (or similar) (B).
Our first full day of temple touring is by private bus so we can visit some of the outlying temples such as Banteay Srei. Known as the Women's Citadel, this small temple complex with intricate carvings is devoted to Brahma. Particularly impressive are Banteay Kdei and Ta Prohm, still covered in jungle, similar to how it was when it first came to light. Described as being 'grander than anything of Greece or Rome' by French explorer Henri Mouhot, this World Heritage site stands alongside the Pyramids and Machu Picchu as one of the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world.
Tonight is free to enjoy one of the many restaurants on the 'Bar Street' boulevard in central Siem Reap. You may also wish to marvel at the skills of the Phare Cambodian Circus troop or chose to watch traditional Apsara dancing. Stay: Angkor Holiday Hotel (or similar) (B).
This morning, we get set up on mountain bikes for an easy but active ride around the Angkorian ruins that are closer to town. On the bicycle, we can avoid some of the crowds and get a unique perspective on this amazing site. If you want to rise early, you can arrange with your leader to take in Angkor at sunrise prior to the day's cycling. We visit the incredible Angkor Wat, the many temples inside the Royal City of Angkor Thom, including the magnificent Bayon, which is comprised of 54 intricately carved towers in one single temple.
The Bayon certainly left an impression on an early traveller in 1925 who stated 'we stand before it stunned. It is like nothing else in the land. ' Angkor is a truly magical experience and a photographer's paradise, one of the real highlights of our trip. The ride will be approximately 15. 5mi (25km) with plenty of opportunities for refreshment stops and to take photos. If you would like to opt out of cycling and instead cool down in the support vehicle, please let your leader know who can arrange the logistics of this and the rest of the group. Stay: Angkor Holiday Hotel (or similar) (B).
The tour ends this morning in Siem Reap after breakfast. If you'd like to spend a little more time to explore, speak to your sales representative about extending your stay (B).
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